The most useful tool for making Gundam Model Kits! Unexpected? A guide to using plastic modeling adhesives for different purposes & 6 recommended adhesives!

Hello, this is Karyas! This is the 11th edition of "The Tool Way! In this 11th issue of "The Tool Way!", we would like to introduce and review adhesives for plastic models (for styrene resin)!

Have you ever used plastic modeling adhesives? Most of the latest robotic and character kits, including Gunpla, are snap-fit kits that do not require adhesives, so there are probably many people who have never used adhesives. However, if you want to challenge old robotic or character kits, as well as so-called scale models such as tanks, airplanes, and ships, even the latest kits cannot be built without adhesives (with a few exceptions).

I've only built kits that don't require glue, but I think it's time to try my hand at some of the older Gunpla kits!

I'm thinking of buying some glue, but I don't know which one to buy!

"I really want to build a tank, but it looks too difficult to use glue, so I'm putting it on hold. ......

For those people, we would like to introduce recommended plastic modeling adhesives (for styrene resin) and how to use them!

Adhesives for plastic models contain highly volatile organic solvents and other chemicals. Fire is of course strictly prohibited, and be sure to ventilate regularly!

What is adhesive for styrene resin?

The basic adhesive most frequently used in plastic model production is "styrene resin adhesive. It is an adhesive for plastic models only, and cannot be used for materials other than plastic (instant adhesives are required for bonding metals, etc.). There are two types of styrene resin adhesives: gel type (containing resin) and liquid type (pour-in type),

<Type with resin

Resin is dissolved in the solvent, and when applied to plastic parts, the solvent dissolves the plastic → Resin contained in the plastic parts and the resin contained in the solvent combine → Only the solvent volatilizes when dry. The basic principle is to apply it to the adhesive surface first and then match the parts.

It takes time to dry, so work can be done slowly. After drying, a smooth resin film is formed.

Since the plastics are not directly bonded to each other, the adhesion is not as strong as it could be. This makes it easier to remove the plastic if it is mistakenly bonded.

The list of ingredients of this resin-containing type shows that it contains 10% resin. (There are slight differences in ingredients among products, but the contents are almost the same for all of them.

<Flow-in type

No resin is contained in this type, and the plastic parts are melted in a solvent and directly bonded together for adhesion. Basically, the parts are poured into the gaps after they are assembled.

It dries quickly, so work efficiency is high. No film is formed after drying.

Since the plastic parts are melted firmly and bonded together, they can be strongly fixed in place. However, it is difficult to remove the mold if it is glued by mistake (especially if a large area is glued).

However, if you are not accustomed to using this method, unintended parts may melt or stick to the mold.

However, if you are not accustomed to using this method, it may melt or stick to unintended areas.

The following is a list of the ingredients of the pour-in type.

The list of ingredients for the pour-in type shows that it contains no resin at all.

How should we use them differently?

The best recommendation is to buy one resin-containing type and one pour-in type. Although it depends on the type of model you are building, it is more efficient to use the pour-in type when gluing the parts together, and then apply the resin-containing type first to the parts before gluing them together when working on parts that are deep or difficult to glue or when fine adjustments are necessary!

Incidentally, in addition to styrene resin adhesives, there are many other types of adhesives used in plastic modeling, such as instant adhesives, epoxy adhesives, and adhesives. We plan to review these at another time, so please look forward to it!

Below are some recommended plastic modeling adhesives!

Recommended resin-containing types

Mr. Cement Virtue

Manufacturer: GSI Creos

Contents :40ml

Official price :220 yen (including tax)

This is an increased volume version of Mr. Cement, which comes in a 25ml package for 165 yen (tax included). Because it is a virtuous use, the cosmetics are the strongest! The viscosity is somewhere between thick and smooth, and it is very comfortable to use. If in doubt, just buy this one for the time being!

Tamiya Cement (square bottle)

Manufacturer: Tamiya

Contents :40ml

Official price :264 yen (tax included)

It is a little more viscous than Mr. Cement, but the performance is almost the same. It is also the first adhesive that I, Kariyasu, bought. Incidentally, a hexagonal bottle type with the same contents and orange cap is also available, but this one contains 20 ml and costs 198 yen (including tax), so the square bottle type is more economical if you are looking for a cost-effective alternative!

Tamiya Cement for ABS

Contents :40ml

Official price :330 yen (tax included)

Parts for which strength and flexibility are important, such as joints in mechanical and character kits and masts in ship models, are often made of a material called ABS, which is different from regular plastic. ABS can be glued to the parts by pouring in the adhesive, but if you want to glue the parts firmly without melting them, use this special cement for ABS!

I used three resin-filled type adhesives to glue plastic and ABS junk parts together. All of them were well cured after 30 minutes!

In addition to the ones shown here, Tamiya also offers limonene-based adhesives that use limonene extracted from citrus fruits instead of organic solvents. Compared to regular styrene resin adhesives, it takes a little longer to bond, but it is environmentally friendly and has a nice lemon-like aroma, so it is recommended for families building plastic models together!

Recommended resin-containing type

Tamiya Cement (Poured-in-place type) Quick-drying

Contents :40ml

Official price :429 yen (tax included)

The most popular quick-drying type of pour-in adhesives. Tamiya's pour-in adhesive has a thin brush attached and is suitable for bonding very small parts. Incidentally, there is also a regular Tamiya cement (pour-in type) that is not quick-drying, but this one comes in a 40ml package for 407 yen (tax included). If you want to work slowly, this is a good choice.

Mr. Cement S (pour-in type)

Manufacturer: GSI Creos

Contents :40ml

Official price :275 yen (tax included)

This is the most cost-effective pour-in adhesive! Its performance is almost the same as Tamiya Cement, but the included brush is larger, making it perfect for bonding large parts and melting and texturing the surface of large areas of plastic. Mr. Cement SP (Super Power) with improved dissolving power and quick-drying properties is also available in 40 ml packs for 330 yen (tax included), so you can use that if you want to work quickly and efficiently.

Mr. Cement SPB (black)

Manufacturer :GSI Creos

Contents :40ml

Official price :352 yen (tax included)

A black version of Mr. Cement SP with a unique smell. Since the adhesive is visible in black, it is great for preventing the tragedy of accidentally touching a part with your finger before it dries and having your fingerprints imprinted on it! It can also be used for scratching parts when crafting plastic boards and other materials, as the matching lines will remain black and provide a bite, making it easier to accurately determine dimensions.

I tried gluing plastic junk parts using the three pour-in types, and they all cured well after 5 minutes. Only for Mr. Cement SPB, I used an uneven plastic plate to make it easier to peel off after curing, but you can clearly see where the adhesive flowed in!

Application - Let's try a simple damage expression!

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, the strong solubility of the pour-in-place type allows for a variety of processing by melting the plastic. So, finally, we will introduce a technique for expressing damage using pour-in-place adhesives, which anyone can do!

All you need is pour-on adhesive and cutting tools such as a design knife or metal file. By simply gouging or tapping the melted and softened parts with a tool, you can easily reproduce bullet holes or beam saber cut marks, so please give it a try!

So, how was it? There are many other ways to use adhesives for plastic models, such as casting expressions and using them in place of putty, so let's learn to use them well!

Well, I'll see you again~♪

<Writer Information

Kariyasu

Entertainment and hobby writer. He loves models, dioramas, and figures, and is in charge of reviewing plastic models and miniatures, as well as tool reviews and various interviews. Recently, I got a splash of poured-in adhesive in my eye, but I immediately rinsed it off with running water and it was fine (I also went to an ophthalmologist, but I was fine). Please be careful, everyone!

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