Let's make your Gundam Model Kits look cool with ease! A collection of recommended items and an introduction to "smudging pens" that you may not have heard of before! The Tool Way! The 13th Edition
Hello, this is Karyas! This is the 13th edition of "The Tool Way! In this 13th issue of "The Tool Way!", we would like to introduce and review a smudging pen (Gundam Marker) that is now on sale from GSI Creos!
I love the feeling of the smudge spreading along the mold!
What? You say you don't know what smudging is because you've never done it before? That's a waste of time!
Just by smudging, not only painted works but also unpainted Gundam plastic models, your works will become more attractive and cool, so let's try it now!
What is smudging?
Sumiiri-ing is a technique to make a model three-dimensional by pouring black, brown, or other dark-colored paint (sumi) into the mold (recessed area) of a kit to create shadows. Often, oil or enamel paints are used, as they have good paint stretchability and can be dissolved with solvents after drying, but water-based paints can also be used.
The kit as it is (left) and the smudged state (right). There is such a difference in the three-dimensional effect!
For your first smudging, use a smudging pen!
If you want to do serious smudging, you need to dilute enamel paint or oil paint with a solvent and pour it in with a brush, but I think there are many people who think that is a bit troublesome ....... For such people, we recommend the "Gundam Marker Smear Pen," now being developed by Mr. Hobby. No difficult knowledge or skills are required, just use the different types according to the parts you want to smudge!
If you go to a model store or art supply store, you can find a variety of tools, including paints and brushes that are ideal for smudging. When you get to the next level, try to buy them!
There are various types of smudging pens!
There are four types of smudging pens: the ultra-fine nib type (oil-based), the pour-in type (oil-based), the dip pen type (water-based), and the smudging pen SHARP. Each type is different in terms of comfort, so it is recommended that you use the type that best suits your production style and parts.
Below is a summary of basic knowledge that you should keep in mind at the beginning.
<Difference between oil-based and water-based
Oil-based ...... dries quickly and produces strong colors. If used over painted or plated parts, it will dissolve the base, so it can only be used on unassembled and unpainted parts.
Water-based ...... dries a little slower and produces milder colors than oil-based products. It can be used over painted or plated parts without dissolving the base, so it can be used in any condition.
Do not panic, read the warning carefully before use!
<Colors to use
Black, gray, and brown are commonly used for smudging. Each color has its own suitability,
Black...... is a basic color that can be used for any parts, but it is especially suitable for dark-colored parts such as blue and gray. It gives a three-dimensional, sharp impression.
Gray...... goes well with white and light-colored parts. Gives a lighter impression than black.
Brown...... matches well with red, orange, and gold colored parts. It gives a tasteful atmosphere different from black and gray.
The following is a list of the colors that are available. Of course, you can smear the entire kit with the same color, but it will be more beautiful if you use different colors for different parts.
<How to make the correction? > If the ink has been smudged and is not visible, it can be removed with a swab or tissue.
Ink that has been smudged out can be easily wiped off with a cotton swab or tissue before it dries (or even with your finger if it dries a little). If the ink has dried, it can be wiped off with an eraser, melamine sponge, or a special "eraser pen" (275 yen including tax) (see below for details).
The eraser pen can erase ink that has been removed. Note that the strong solubility of the eraser will dissolve the base coat if used on painted or plated parts.
Explanation of each type
Below is a description of the features of each type of smudging pen (all prices include tax). We have also compiled scenes of each type in use into a 3-minute video in the order in which they were introduced, so please check it out!
1 Extra-fine nib type (oil-based)
There are a total of three types: black, gray, and brown. Priced at 275 yen for black, 220 yen for gray and brown.
The ultra-fine nib type allows for easy smudging by simply tracing along the mold. As the name suggests, it is perfect for smudging on thin molds.
We used gray this time. It has a nice gray color.
2 Sink type (oil-based)
Sold individually in black, gray, and brown. All are priced at 275 yen.
This is a type that can be smeared using the so-called capillary action. Just knock the nib onto a piece of paper to moisten it with ink, then lightly touch the nib to the mold, and the ink will flow into the mold in a pleasant, smooth motion. This sensation is inevitable and addictive!
However, because the fluidity of the smear is so high, the smear may unintentionally flow into the joints of the parts, so work carefully to ensure that the smear flows only into the mold where you want it to flow!
I used brown this time. Incidentally, the "Gundam Marker Sink Smudging Pen Set," which comes with six pens (gray, brown, blue, olive, and eraser pen), is now on sale for 1,650 yen, so be sure to check this out as well!
3 Fude Pen Type (Water-based)
Available in black and gray. Priced at 275 yen for black and 220 yen for gray.
The pen tip is a brush, making it soft to the touch and allowing for filling in thick molds and smudging in fine engraved areas. Since it is water-based, the ink is easy to remove, and after roughly filling in areas with dense molds, it is possible to wipe off the convex areas at once!
This time we used black. The ink is thinner than oil-based ink, so it is easy to wipe off with a finger even if it smears out during work.
4 Smudge Pen SHARP
The price of the pen itself is 660 yen, and the special replacement lead is 165 yen. Only one color is available.
This Sharpie-type smudging pen uses a 0.3mm ultra-fine lead to smoothly smudge into recessed molds. A dedicated refill is also available, and it is easy to remove the protruding part with an eraser!
If you compare it to a pencil, the density would be about HB to B. The coloring is excellent, and since no ink is used, it does not stain the pen, which is great. As with regular mechanical pencils, you need to be careful not to break the lead by making it stick out too long!
If you want to see it in video, please click here!
At the end of the video, we drew lines on the plastic parts with each type of Sumiage Pen, and after they dried, we experimented with melamine sponges, erasers, and eraser pens to see how much of the smudges could be removed!
However, the eraser alone left some smudges (oil-based ink tends to leave smudges), so I tried using the eraser, eraser, and melamine sponge in that order and was able to restore most of the smudges to their original state. When removing smudges adhering to extraneous areas, it is best to try a good combination of tools depending on the situation.
I tried smudging on the finished product.
Finally, I tried smudging on a "Mobile Suit Gundam G Frame" Duel Gundam from Shokugan!
Assembled in normal condition and unpainted. It looks cool enough as it is. ......
I used gray for the white parts, black for the blue parts, and brown for the orange parts.
Smudging is completed!
This time, I tried to keep the overall effect light and not too harsh.
I changed the color used to match the color of the parts, so it looks more crisp and clear.
Now, how did you like it?
I recommend that you buy a few pieces to try out first, and then gradually buy more pieces as you get used to smudging. Let's enjoy smudging and complete a higher grade of work!
Well then, see you again~♪
<Writer Profile
Kariyasu
Entertainment and hobby writer. He loves models, dioramas, and figures, and writes about plastic models and miniatures, as well as tool reviews and various interviews. He has an experience of jabbing and washing Gundam plastic models with enamel paints, and ruining them to pieces.
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